Paris Women’s Fashion Week opened on Monday with bold debuts from South Africa’s MaXhosa Africa and Canadian label Matières Fécales, bringing fresh energy to an industry navigating a commercial slump.
A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital.
Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their models out on Tuesday.
It could be a last show for Saint Laurent’s Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand’s success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit.
If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands.
At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed.
At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.
“There were the ‘golden years’ (for the sector) after Covid, a peak in 2023 and then a luxury market that stabilised,” Pascal Morand, executive president of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, said.
“The major groups, mid-sized brands and young designers are not affected in the same way. Markets, outlets and business models are evolving.”
Bright Spots
Although sales are falling for many brands, there are bright spots.
Since his arrival a year ago at the helm of Chanel, Matthieu Blazy has created a buzz and sales frenzy at the classic French label, with customers queueing outside some boutiques for his latest collections.
His Spring-Summer show takes place next Monday.
Another brand with reason for cheer is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear group founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who has already shown collections privately in Paris but has now been invited to join the official programme.
On a mission to promote South African culture and the traditions of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts Michelle Obama and Beyoncé as fans.
With his first show on Monday, he will be hoping to emulate the success of Matières Fécale, the Canadian brand which first appeared in March last year but has gone on to dress a host of celebrities and A-listers.
Its unusual name — which means faecal matter in French — was chosen to ensure that people who bought the brand’s clothing only wanted it for the design, rather than the name on the label.
After events by Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, the Matieres Fecales show at 7:00 p.m. (1700 GMT) will bring the first day of Paris Fashion Week to a close.
AFP
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