For centuries, Akwete fabric has stood as a proud symbol of Igbo craftsmanship and cultural identity. Today, renewed government support, fresh investment and growing private sector interest are breathing new life into the iconic handwoven textile, writes Charles Ajunwa
The revival of Akwete fabric, one of Nigeria’s oldest indigenous textiles, appears to have entered a defining moment. Long celebrated as a symbol of Igbo craftsmanship but constrained by limited production and weak commercialisation, the centuries-old handwoven fabric is now attracting unprecedented government attention, fresh investment and private sector interest.
With the intervention of Nigeria’s First Lady, Senator Oluremi Tinubu, and the Abia State Government’s ambitious plans to modernise production, many believe Akwete is poised to reclaim its place not only as a cultural treasure but also as a globally competitive fashion and creative industry brand.
On Tuesday, the Governor of Abia State, Dr. Alex Otti, accompanied by his wife, Priscilla, government officials and traditional rulers received the wife of the President, Senator Tinubu, who was in the state to see first-hand and give support to local women who weave the popular Akwete cloth, which is indigenous to the people of Akwete town, also known as Ndoki town in Abia South.
This traditional Igbo weaving processes sisal, hemp, raffia, cotton or other fibres into finished products. While the coarse raffia materials are used by masquerades and in the past as headgear for warriors among other uses, the hemp material was used to weave towels, ropes and handbags. The more comfortable and colourful spun cotton is used to weave cloth for everyday wearing. Akwete cloths contain many motifs. Today, Ndoki women continue to produce Akwete cloth for a wide, global market.
The First Lady at Akwete, not only canvassed the preservation of the rich heritage of Nigerians for posterity and prosperity, she donated N2 billion to the state for the development of the Akwete production site in Abia State.
According to her, the tradition of Akwete handmade fabric was dear to the hearts of women, who made it, adding that they should be encouraged to pass it on to the next generation.
“It is a sacred craft done with love, patience, endurance and that should not be desecrated. When we saw a building there, we said we would lift the structure. We can build on it, which will tell the story.
“For the women of Akwete, I heard your cry, am here to announce to all Nigerians and the Igbo should take Akwete to the nations. For me and all the notable sons of Igbo land, rise up to preserve this,” she said.
She added, “Our young people need to also be encouraged to get used to our tradition and cultural outfits. It is the culture that raised me and there is nowhere that I stand in the world without wearing African wears.
“These women while they hold their craft very dear, it is a spiritual thing for them, one of the good things that I saw, were young people in their families doing exact thing.
“I love traditional outfits because our tradition, our culture tells who we are, the moment we lose that, we won’t remember where we come from.”
Governor Otti thanked the First Lady for “inviting herself” to Abia, noting that her visit came at a strategic time as the state has been engaging Akwete women since 2023 to break barriers of tradition and scale production.
“We believe, just like you do, that there is a lot that Akwete can do. If we don’t accept technology and move very swiftly, others will take over the market. Today you have Akwete being made in India and China,” Otti said.
Otti said Abia had designed a proposal for a production hub for Akwete women and would submit it to the First Lady for possible partnership.
For the Abia First Lady, Mrs. Priscilla Otti, the visit was historic as it was the first time a Nigerian First Lady came in person to support Akwete weavers.
“For me it is deeply personal. Akwete cloth was among the most treasured gifts presented to me during my traditional marriage over 30 years ago. Behind every thread is the creativity and resilience of an Abia woman.”
Otti had pledged to promote the local fabric, Akwete, in the state when a delegation from Ethnocentrique Limited paid him a courtesy visit.
Otti, who commended the organisation’s ongoing efforts to boost the state’s shoe and garment industry, said it aligned with his administration’s vision.
Apart from emphasising on the need to apply technology in the production of the local fabric, Otti said it would improve product’s quality, and reduce production costs.
He said a legislation would be out together to ensure that Abians patronise Akwete fabric.
“The Akwete market looks like an oligopolistic market just like you said; where daughters, mothers and grandmothers handle the business. It doesn’t go beyond that, we need to find a way to expand it.
“While not deriding what they have done, we can always improve by applying technology, so that cost of production will become cheaper by the time you have large scale production.
“We can also pass a legislation that ensures that people use it and it must be available for people to get it,” Otti stated.
Otti, who thanked the team for choosing Aba for the programme, noted that the global cotton, textile and garment space remains a lucrative industry worth $1.8 trillion, with significant shares controlled by countries like the United States, China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam.
The Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Ethnocentrique Limited, Mrs. Irunna Ejibe, said that the group was in Aba since May last year to skill up support for 5,000 young people and activate the local economy in a programme tagged ‘Fashion Future Programme’.
She said Abia State was chosen because of the place and status of Aba as the heart of fashion in West Africa, adding that, there is now a visionary government in Abia that came prepared to change the story of the state.
Ejibe, who presented Akwete fabric to the governor, had invited him to participate in the 2025 fashion show held at Aba.